Hermes Autumn/Winter 2010-11
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Jean Paul Gaultier puts on less of a catwalk show, more of a themed party every season both for his own label and for HERMES. Today, the party for the latter was co-hosted by Lily Cole fancy dressed as a super sexy Diana Rigg Avenger, complete with bowler hat. As Goldfinger played, she walked out of a Bond film black hole and set the tone for a heavily black, top-to-toe leather collection accented by a plethora of shiny crocodile leather for skirts and jackets and long trench coats that came jauntily accessorised with a copy of The New York Times under one arm. There was a strong masculine theme, with three pieces leather suits teamed with watches on silver chains, monocles and crocodile leather or leopard print umbrellas, some of which had miniature Kelly bags, and even sportier V-neck sweatshirts came in more supple black leather – when they weren’t bulky green V-neck crossover men’s jumpers. A faded leopard print chiffon for dresses and blouses lightened the atmosphere, while full length jersey dresses with a stripe of crocodile from the nape of the neck down the middle to the floor had a wonderful movement. Dramatic fringed blanket coats will protect from another arctic winter in yeti style – sheepskin piled up in layers did the same job but to more stylish effect, while chic straight cut knee high riding boots will certainly keep Hermes in the money next season.
The Haute Couture Fashion Week has begun and the high fashion market has posted some very positive sales news. Top Parisian labels, including Chanel, Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier, have revealed a marked increase in both sales and demand. ”We have received so many orders, we are not sure we can deliver them,” said Dior ceo Sidney Toledano. “The demand is here. The number of clients has increased – they are looking for high quality, and haute couture is the summit. I’m very optimistic for the future,” he continued. “In the business of couture, the numbers are becoming interesting. The rise has been credited to an influx of orders from China, the Middle East and Russia. Chanel has seen a rise “between 20 and 30 per cent” over the past year.
Hermès has denied rumours that Jean Paul Gaultier is leaving the French power house. The fashion world was in a spin thanks to suggestions that Gaultier, who took over the reins six years ago from Martin Margiela, is stepping down from his post as creative director after his spring/summer 2010 collection is shown in Paris in October. A spokesman at Hermès Australia said: “Hermès and Jean Paul Gaultier both intend to continue their fruitful collaboration. Any rumours to the contrary are unfounded.” It was hard believe that such a successful relationship would be coming to an end. The luxury house has gone from strength to strength recording profits even in these trying times and also owns a 35 per cent stake in Gaultier’s namesake label.
Its seems to be a seemless ability that some designers have of producing the inspirational and the simple, this is one of those simple occasions, but in its simplicity the dress speaks volumes, what does it say i am elegant, chic, and sophisticated.