(Pronounced ASHO EYBEE) Nigerian outfits made from matching fabric to be worn by a group of people to a party, wedding, or funeral as a uniform. Wearing a certain aso ebi identifies the group of wearers. For instance, at a wedding, all the bride’s friends might wear blue and gold, the bride’s family might wear white and gold, and the groom’s friends might wear black and pink, and so on. Usually at weddings, the various fabrics for the aso ebi are decided by the bride, and are then announced to all the guests months in advance so they can prepare their outfits. Guests are usually expected to buy the aso ebi from the bride, but close friends and family members and certain prominent individuals may be presented with the aso ebi as a gift. Aso ebi for parties and funerals are generally simple, but aso ebi for weddings may involve many complex changes with entirely different aso ebi for different days of the wedding, and for the reception.
TOMMY HILFIGER is adding a new lifestyle label to its repertoire, entitled Tommy. Aimed at twentysomething men and women, the line will move away from the preppy styles for which the brand has become known, instead focussing on handmade and distinctive details.
“Tommy gives us more flexibility and freedom to do something truly conceptual,” explains company founder and principal designer Tommy Hilfiger.
Customers can expect a mix of contemporary styles and vintage inspirations.
“The way we’re going to merchandise Tommy will be distinctive and different, not so formulaic. It will be more of a fun, dynamic experience. The product itself, we feel, is going to be a fresh take on the preppy traffic, done in a fresh, young, cool way. When we look around, we don’t see anyone doing this,” says Gary Sheinbaum, chief executive officer of Tommy Hilfiger.
The line will start to sell in October in three freestanding Canadian stores, two in Toronto and one in Edmonton, and then later be introduced into dedicated areas of 14 existing Tommy Hilfiger stores in Canada. It will be available on TOMMY.COM next year.
The launch of this new label is one of the brand’s first initiative since Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. acquired the Tommy Hilfiger business in May.
“THIS show is dedicated to my hubby, kids, family, team and friends. This one is also for Lee… You’re missed!
Stella McCartney paid tribute to Alexander McQueen thus in her show notes this morning. The British designer, who studied at Central Saint Martins at the same time as McQueen, invited us to the Opera House this sunny – but freezing – morning in Paris to show a pretty, very pared down collection for autumn/winter 2010-11. Sharp tailoring, luxurious cashmere knits and matching trousers comprised no-nonsense daywear that was followed by subtly sequinned and lace evening wear that made up a beautifully managed collection with all the Stella quality but slightly less of the pizzazz.
She began with warm camel and black horizontal stripes on a jacket and then a Sixties style tunic – the same tunic reappeared as ultra short dresses with slashed necklines and shoulder seams to show a brief glimpse of chiffon within. Graphic, linear minidresses were offset by nicely fitted trousers – Stella always has her eye on comfort as an inherent factor of style – while one black one with a chiffon single strap and a sheer strip down one side ensured sex appeal was high on the agenda, too. Natty little skirt suits had a strip of chiffon around the waist, while a grey cashmere sweater worn with matching trousers was serenely chic – they won’t hit headlines but they’re bound to be money spinners with the Stella set, as will oversized Parkas of tan or black and white with zips up the central back seam. Bright orange ribbed knits or teeny weeny polo neck dresses added a flash of colour, as did fuchsia silk cocktail dresses – their sequins overlaid in the lightest chiffon as if to tone down any celebratory notion. Enlarged fish scale sequins looked best in nude on the front of minidresses whose backs were extended to the floor and so floated out as the models walked by. Fine, barely-there lace had its patterns picked out in the same colour as its chiffon overlay for bodices and minidresses that had a ghostly beauty – a new concentration on technique put these pieces in a different realm to the rest – while a super short, loose black silk one-shouldered minidress was typically Stella: sexy without shouting about it to get you noticed without noticing.
Jean Paul Gaultier puts on less of a catwalk show, more of a themed party every season both for his own label and for HERMES. Today, the party for the latter was co-hosted by Lily Cole fancy dressed as a super sexy Diana Rigg Avenger, complete with bowler hat. As Goldfinger played, she walked out of a Bond film black hole and set the tone for a heavily black, top-to-toe leather collection accented by a plethora of shiny crocodile leather for skirts and jackets and long trench coats that came jauntily accessorised with a copy of The New York Times under one arm. There was a strong masculine theme, with three pieces leather suits teamed with watches on silver chains, monocles and crocodile leather or leopard print umbrellas, some of which had miniature Kelly bags, and even sportier V-neck sweatshirts came in more supple black leather – when they weren’t bulky green V-neck crossover men’s jumpers. A faded leopard print chiffon for dresses and blouses lightened the atmosphere, while full length jersey dresses with a stripe of crocodile from the nape of the neck down the middle to the floor had a wonderful movement. Dramatic fringed blanket coats will protect from another arctic winter in yeti style – sheepskin piled up in layers did the same job but to more stylish effect, while chic straight cut knee high riding boots will certainly keep Hermes in the money next season.
Stephen Jones, born 31 May 1957 is a leading British milliner based in London, who is considered one of the world’s most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. He is also one of the most prolific, having created hats for the catwalk shows of many leading couturiers and fashion designers, such as John Galliano at Dior and Vivienne Westwood. His work is known for its inventiveness and the high level of technical expertise with which he realises his ideas. Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats: An Anthology for the Victoria & Albert Museum.
Stephen Jones began his career on graduating from St Martin’s School of Art in 1979. Since then he has produced hat collections twice a year under his label ‘Stephen Jones Millinery’, while also collaborating with some of the most prominent fashion houses and designers of our time, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Thierry Mugler, Christian Dior, John Galliano, Comme des Garçons and Marc Jacobs. Distinct from hat-making, with its large-scale production of standard hat types, millinery focuses on the creation and decoration of elegant, experimental and often whimsical hats. Jones permits us to examine the world of millinery from the inside out, following the life-cycle of a hat from its point of inception in the milliner’s mind to its final incarnation atop the wearer’s head.
Fashion News, Fashion Profile, Fashion Trends
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British milliner, Christian Dior, Comme des Garçons, Hat, John Galliano, London, Marc Jacobs, Stephen Jones Millinery, Victoria & Albert Museum, Vivienne Westwood
The Armani Group has entered into a long-term licensing agreement with Venchi, one of Italy’s market leaders in the high quality chocolate sector, for the production and distribution throughout the world of Armani/Dolci - a line of products including chocolate, pates de fruits, ice creams and panettone.
“This new collaboration with Venchi represents the natural fusion of my desire to offer our clients Armani/Dolci products of the highest quality, already recognised and appreciated throughout the world, with the exceptional skills and traditions of the Italian market leader in the quality chocolate sector,” says Giorgio Armani, president and ceo of the Armani Group – one of the leading luxury and fashion goods groups in the world.
Using recipes that are up to 130 years old and faithful to the culture of the region’s chocolate-making tradition, Venchi prides itself on a “good, pure and genuine” philosophy.
“Our intention is to build Armani/Dolci into the benchmark for fine Italian confectionery throughout the world,” says Daniele Ferrero, president of Venchi.
As one of Germany’s most important contemporary jewellers, the house of Hemmerle has eased open the parameters of convention.To enhance the intrinsic beauty of exceptional gemstones the Hemmerle signature matches them with earthy materials. The rigorous simplicity of the house’s design evokes the disciplines of the Bauhaus and the Neue Sachlickeit, but in a unique way defined only by master craftsmen’s hands. The story behind this distinctive look is rooted in traditional 19th century Berlin iron jewellery. Hemmerle being inspired by this, began to work the grey base metal with white and brown diamonds. That creative breakthrough released a flood of inspiration that has since made the look that is Hemmerle. The atelier produces a limited number of unique pieces that resonate with this distinctive look.
“There’s no such thing as bad weather, only inadequate clothing.” Ted Hughes. With weather
that’s less predictable than the line-ups, let the words of poet Ted Hughes be your mantra this summer. More than ever festival dressing is about preparation, preparation, preparation. The summer collections are a wealth of festival appropriate fare. Utility – safari or military inspired – as seen at Chloe, Sportmax and Loewe makes festival fashion sense. Adopt rain resistant ponchos, functional multi-pocketed skirts and combat jackets – great for stashing anti-bacterial hand-gel, sunscreen and compact. Don’t be tempted to go head-to-toe though, mix practical with pretty floral print dresses, or plain tees, to avoid looking too Tank Girl.
The abundance and versatility of shorts makes them a perennial festival staple. Wear with knee-high socks a la Wang, and a giant parka courtesy of Chloe, and you’re done. A great trend testing ground to spot what worked en-field, and what didn’t. Our verdict – floral, tribal and tie-dye prints – yes, lace body-con – no. Swimwear and combats – yes, underwear as outerwear – no.
LADIES, breathe a sigh of relief. After seasons of teetering on towering stilettos, battling with abstract wedges and navigating the perils of platforms, spring/summer brings an end to the balancing act. Welcome the new low heel.
We know, they haven’t always scored high on the lust front, but with Chloe, Stella McCartney, Marni and Missoni pioneering the new heel height you can expect to be impressed. Chloe’s take their shape from a pirate boot, with wide saddle leather buckled straps, while Marni’s bronze and black suede sandals make a great evening option, and Missoni’s boast a wooden sole (jump on the bandwagon; wooden soles are everywhere this season).
Warning: once tried, you’ll never want to wear heels again.
The Haute Couture Fashion Week has begun and the high fashion market has posted some very positive sales news. Top Parisian labels, including Chanel, Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier, have revealed a marked increase in both sales and demand. ”We have received so many orders, we are not sure we can deliver them,” said Dior ceo Sidney Toledano. “The demand is here. The number of clients has increased – they are looking for high quality, and haute couture is the summit. I’m very optimistic for the future,” he continued. “In the business of couture, the numbers are becoming interesting. The rise has been credited to an influx of orders from China, the Middle East and Russia. Chanel has seen a rise “between 20 and 30 per cent” over the past year.
“There is no end of the season,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel to WWD. “The people who are interested in couture, they are quite active at the moment. They can come at any time.”
Kicking off this week’s shows today are Bouchra Jarra, Dior, and new comer Axelis Mabille. Tomorrow sees new offerings from Armani Prive, Chanel and Givenchy – the last time the label will show its highest end collections in catwalk format after it opted to conduct individual appointments. Elie Saab, Gaultier and Valentino will round up the event. This year’s event will also see the introduction of jewellery on the official couture schedule. Van Cleef & Arpels and Chanel Joaillerie will both present their new collections.
Fashion News, Fashion Profile, Fashion Trends
| Armani Prive, Axelis Mabille, Bouchra Jarra, Chanel, Chanel Joaillerie, Dior, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Haute Couture, Jean Paul Gaultier, Sidney Toledano, valentino, Van Cleef & Arpels
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