African Fashion Week

By Nwinkus, July 28, 2010 8:59 pm

DTLALE42010DTLALE12010Though the African fashion week ended on the 3rd of  July we have just had a look at some of the interesting , there were a number of very interesting shows, however one of  the standout shows was that of the South African designer David Tlale, this young man has consistently produced stytlish and creative designs , while Deola Sagoe seemed to produce a standard set of signature dresses though not as edgy as David’s. Xuly Bet produced  another set of   designs in mono colour.  Black was the sum total of these  set of designs that  where  potentially eye catching including, overall it was a good show and a lot of the designers turned up and delivered, there is one area though that I believe might need to be addressed going forward and that is the area of Indigenous Styling ; this concept refers to styles that have been perpetuated for quite a few decades and in some case a few years  centures, these creations where as a Christie Brown1result of fashion and functionality, the usual style of the modern interpretation of Koketso Chiepe and Christie Brown6African fashion are catwalk concepts infused with fabrics used by africans such as these wonderful pieces by Koketso Chiepe and Christie Brown, right and left, but it will be nice to take a concept like BUBA and IRO (a Yoruba traditional style for women in the west of Nigeria) and use it a concept to create different designs.

Japanese Street Fashion Kogal’s

By Nwinkus, June 16, 2010 10:26 pm

Kogals (コギャル kogyaru, lit. “small/child girl”) are a subculture of girls and young women in urban Japan, one of several types of so-called gals. They are characterized by conspicuously displaying their disposable incomes through unique tastes in fashion, music, and social activity. In general, the kogal “look” roughly approximates a sun-tanned California Valley girl, and indeed, the similarities between the two extend to the linguistic, for both subcultures have derived entire sets of slang terms (コギャル語 “ko-gyaru-go”). Kogals are not to be confused with the ganguro subculture, although they are similar. Kogals are known for wearing platform boots, a miniskirt, copious amounts of makeup, hair coloring (usually blond), artificial suntans, and designer accessories. If in school uniform, the look typically includes skirts pinned very high and loose socks (large baggykogal2

socks (large baggy socks that go up to the knee). Kogals’ busy social lives and desire for new material goods leads them to be among the first consumers of Japanese cell phone technology, and their taste in clothes tends toward names such as Burberry scarves and Louis Vuitton handbags. Kogals spend much of their free time (and their father’s income) shopping, and their culture centers around the Shibuya district of Tokyo, in particular the 109 building, although any major Japanese city is sure to have at least a small population. During the summer, kogals may sometimes be seen at the beach. They are generally not seen in high-end department stores. Critics of the Kogal subculture decry its materialism as reflecting a larger psychological or spiritual emptiness in modern Japanese life. Some kogals support their lifestyle with allowances from wealthy parents, living a “freeter” or “parasite single” existence that grates against traditional principles of duty and industry. A small minority appear in pornography to finance their habits. More may engage in the practice of “compensated dating”, or enjo kōsai, which may at times border on quasi-legal prostitution. Internet-based usage of this term has led some Western observers to the mistake of believing that “kogal” means “prostitute”.The kogal phenomenon emerged in the mid-1990s and its effects can still be seen today in its numerous off-shoots of sub-categories, although conservative tastes in dress and hair color seem to be on the upswing. Interestingly enough, the Gothic Lolita aesthetic has been described as a reaction to the kogal look.

 

Adidas Gazelle’s

By Nwinkus, June 14, 2010 8:07 pm

adidas-gazelle-africa-6bmaterials of the world is an Adidas brain child , forever the forward thinkers they produced a range of different material shoes modelled in their image one such range was the gazelle and they numbered 500 pairs only, as the fable goes, well at least in the LAND OF THE SNEAKER, however the material used for the Gazelle was the Vlisco (Hollandis)  a lot of them looked okay but if I had to design them I would probably us the material sparingly to add value as opposed to an entire base judge for yourself  here  are some of the entries above and  below.

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Vlisco Bags It

By Nwinkus, June 9, 2010 2:31 pm

vliscohautemaroquinerie3Vlisco over the years have brought us a lot of fantastic and unique  pattern designs, and if the truth be told the African fashion scene and the interests that have began to show up in world fashion. Now the Vlisco brand have decided to go one step further and enter into the bag accessorie with set of designs called HAUTE MAROQUINERIE  the picture on the left is a tote bag with a cotton wax print  laminated with a clear PVC film which not only enhances the souplesse of the material but protects it thereby making this bag  unique when viewed through the different looks of the specific Vlisco flower prints. While in the shawl accessory market with a 100 % silk shawl they have called MAMA . It’s a known fact that the accessories market is big business and its quite exciting to see how Vlisco intends to enhance the spark  in a trendthat is African fashion, in what is a very crowded accessories market, but one that is begging for something totally different. I have always felt that trends are seasonal and cyclical, but style is continuous and morphs, in general different parts of the globe have their own style and colours though there is a lot of overlap distinctions are highlighted as opposed to parallels, this will not be the first attempt at using this fabric to create accessories, but I hope it is about to become the most visible and sustained and with the clout and financial backing of this print design company I would expect that in some part of the global fashion establishment you might be seeing the birth of  a sub-genre in the accessory market which will be aligned with our distinct African style.

Africa Fashion Week 2010 June 30 – July 3

By Nwinkus, June 7, 2010 10:46 pm

AF Wjune-july2010AF W1june_july2010June 2010, Johannesburg – African designers from all over the world are jetting in to showcase their Trans seasonal 2010 collections at the Sandton Convention Centre during Africa Fashion Week which starts on June 30, only days before the FIFA 2010 World Cup Quarter Finals.
Established South African fashion-world heavy-weights including Marianne Fassler, Errol Arendz, Stoned Cherrie and David Tlale will show alongside global talents like Deola Sagoe (fresh from New York Fashion Week) and current celeb-favourite Laquan Smith.
Xuly Bet, the Paris-based go-to label for many celebrities, including Grace Jones, Lauryn Hill and Neneh Cherry, will be opening this years’ Africa Fashion Week. The award-winning label recently made global headlines with the ‘Obama’ dress at New York Fashion Week.
Marianne Fassler, who has not shown for two years, will be showcasing a collection entitled Global Gathering. The collection, a multi-layered extravaganza will focus on the idea of beginning: Africa as the birthplace of mankind and children as the original designers – her show will open with a small capsule collection designed under her direction by two children Adam (7) and Sibella (9), before continuing on a journey that pays homage to Africa’s polyglot of nations. Joining her on the schedule is New Yorker-based label Mataano. The soft, feminine line is designed by the Somali sisters Ayaan and Idyl Mohallim who have been likened to the Olsen twins of Africa and have featured on CNN and Oprah.
Other designers traveling from the US include Laquan Smith, the current favourite of Rhianna (he designed the gold dress for her Rudeboy video) and Lady Gaga.Mimi Plange, who has worked with designer Rachel Roy and Patricia Field, the famed Sex and the City stylist, will be bringing her sophisticated, yet deeply romantic label Boudoir D’Huitres to Africa Fashion Week. Bunmi Koko, a British-based label has been garnering UK press attention over the past year with her innovative, structured designs favoured by celebrities such as Mel B (who chose a Bunmi Koko couture dress for the 2010 Brit Awards), Alesha Dixon, Alex Curran, Sadie Frost and Kate Middleton will also be showcasing on African soil. Local South African brand Stoned Cherrie will be marking their tenth anniversary with their Africa Fashion Week show – their Summer 2010 collection is a retrospective look at the label’s silhouettes throughout its history.”Africa Fashion Week is providing a platform for shining stars from across the diaspora, the continent and the country,” says Dr. Precious Moloi-Motsepe, Chairperson of African Fashion International. “The world continues its love affair with all things African, African as a point of reference, not as a cliché and it’s very important we here in Africa continue to support that.”  Completing the line-up of designers at Africa Fashion Week 2010 are Sakina Msa, Ituen Basi (last year’s Africa Fashion Award winner for Innovative Designs), Soucha, Heni Este-Heijzen and Christie Brown (joint winners of last year’s Emerging Designer Award), Noir, Qumi Bespoke, Koketso Chiepe, Gloria Wavamunno and Abigail Betz, Thula Sindi, Carducci and Fabiani. The four day event features more than 30 designers from Guinea Bissau, Nigeria, Uganda, Botswana, Ghana, Somali, Tunisia, French Commores, South Africa, Mozambique, the United States and the UK.   Africa Fashion Week runs from June 30 – July 3 2010 at the Sandton Convention Centre

Sarah’s the New Creative Director for McQueen

By Nwinkus, June 4, 2010 5:56 pm

Alexander-McQueen&Sarah_J_ParkerSarah Burton, has a large pair of shoes to fill in becoming the creative director of the brand. The parent company Gucci Group which owns 51% of the McQueen brand, announced that Burton will supervise the creative direction and development of all collections of the brand going forwards. Burton, 35, was born in Manchester, began working for the late designer, in 1996, while she was in her final year at Central St. Martins – McQueen’s own alma mater. She was appointed head of women’s wear design in 2000, and was working closely with the designer right up until his untimely death by suicide, in February. due to this she probably knows McQueen professionaly as well as anyone as she worked wit him for 14 years. we wish her the best of luck but she might not need it,  as she is as safe a pair of hands as the brand could get.

Who was Alexander “Lee” McQueen

It does not seem like it but Lee McQueen died all the way back in february, a good 3 months ago and while all seems to have gone silent  I shall give a  personalised view of how  I percieved this guy. Born on 17 March 1969  he started making dresses for his three sisters at a young age and announced his intention to become a fashion designer. The skills he learned as an apprentice on Savile Row helped earn him a reputation in the fashion world as an expert in creating an impeccably tailored look. McQueen’s “bumsters” spawned a trend in low rise jeans; on their debut they attracted many comments and debate. To many the bumster was what  defined McQueen. McQueen also became known for using skulls in his designs.” But to me I think this will be a bit simplistic and slightly limiting McQueen was the epitome of design genius, within this blog I have refered to him on numerous occasions for his outfits and his shoes, The  constant ”WOW” value is a quality that is not easy to achieve in a creative endeavour along with a few super creatives like Hussein Chalayan and Gareth Pugh he in my mind was at the pinnacle of  this elite group. He stayed true to his talent to the end I looked at his last collection and his ready to wear was more innovative than many Haute Couture this is a flavour of what was produced09Lee_Fall2010_RTW left but in another breadth he produced the resort collection which looked like a ready to wear collection right . I will be unable to produce a 02Lee_2010_Resortdetailed picture of his life but I will dip briefly into the scope and the breadth of what was an immeresurably astute and talented business individual. In the same season he could produce 3 different styles this guy was hard working and on his game. McQueen also worked with the stars big and small and this is another stand out feature of this designer,  mostly we get very used to seeing only a particular type of physique however  did not have any such hangups, he delved into different inspirations and showed his aspirations in his varied collections and his outlandish and ostentatiously styled shows. Indeed in watching some of his shows like his Atlantis 2010  fashion show the clothes and the show formed the entire concept transporting you both physically and mentally on a journey to the lost world. Not satisfied with being pigeonholed he also has a range with Puma, according to McQueen its a Tiger vs Crane concept sounds like an old Kung Fu movie. The concept combines technology and tradition with a number of well designed figures and from afar it looks simple enough but up close the true intricacy and detail of each piece grip you in true McQueen style. Below are some of the images left Beyonce, middle Beth Ditto and right Lady Gaga and Cyndi Lauper. His full impact on the fashion industry will be known over the next 5 to 10 years but one thing I do know is we will not see another master of  concept, colour and cut as McQueen was, at least not in the foreseeable future.

Beyonce-In-Lee_McQueen2010-Lady-Gaga&Cyndi-Lauper-in-AlexMcqueenBeth-Ditto-in-Alex-McQueen

Hussein Chalayan, Proenza Schouler and J brand

By Nwinkus, June 3, 2010 11:09 pm

JBrand_hussein_buy1It seems that there are a lot of collaborations with J Brand at present.  A  few months back, Proenza Schouler  designed a set of jeans with them .  Just as in 2009 when Hussein Chalayan and J Brand ex-creative director and co owner  Susie Crippen the other owner being   Jeff Rudes,  collaborated on a denim line, in decribing thier concept they explained that their real mission,  was to make  the avant-garde accessible. Said Hussein “denim rescues everything” ,  as he proceeded to explain that  its a confidence boosting rescue, “its the joker  card of your wardrobe”, looking at the position that he operates from and because of his avant-garde status Hussein is almost unreachable but the collaboration worked because being accesible as an avantgarde he was able to change the dynamics of the relationship between the designer and the wearer. As a result  this collaboration gave  both parties the chance to expand  their markets with a little inflence from each other. In the 2010 Collaboration Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez explained they were exploring the idea of uniforms with their fall collection and couldn’t ignore denim’s ubiquity in most people’s wardrobe. . Each pair was printed with a graphic black and white graffiti print, which is hand-pained over to create texture. with some of these very astute collaborations it will be interesting to see how well J Brand label expands its customer base.

Luella Goes Under

By Nwinkus, November 29, 2009 10:05 pm

LUELLANot quite, but the English-eccentric label has ceased trading with long-term financial backer Club 21, which pulled its support for Luella. VSQ, a Club 21 subsidiary, decided “not to invest further in its relationship with Luella Bartley Limited” after Luella’s ready-to-wear manufacturer, Carla Carini, closed unexpectedly last month, leaving Spring/Sumer 2010 orders unable to be fulfilled.
“This is a very disappointing situation for everyone involved with the brand,” designer Luella Bartley said in a statement. “I very much appreciate the support that VSQ has given me, but it is upsetting not to be able to protect jobs in this difficult economic climate. I love the Luella character and hope that after we have survived this challenging time the Luella girl can have an exciting future ahead of her, whichever incarnation she takes on next. We have a number of options open to us, and are considering these over the coming months.”
With an estimated $16 million turnover and glowing reviews for its last collection, not to mention legions of celebrity fans including Alexa Chung, Zooey Deschanel and Lily Allen, we’re sure Luella is down but definitely not out.

Valentino the last emperor

By Nwinkus, November 25, 2009 10:34 pm

I saw a documentary once about Karl Lagerfeld, it left an indelible impact on me, because it gave me an insight into the day to day life of a fashion supremo at work, I am told that Valentino the last emperor has the  same if not more intriguing moments ( one such moments is when Karl Largerfeld proclaims that he and Valentino are the true masters and the rest are just making “RAGS” what a classic line). Taking his last bow before an adoring crowd of movie stars, royals, designers, socialites and supermodels during Paris’ haute couture shows in January. At 76, the designer most often referred to as the “sheik of chic”, received a standing ovation and shed a few tears himself when he was surrounded by models clad in his signature shade, “Valentino red.” Two years ago, at 75, Valentino was abruptly retired by Permira, the private equity group that had bought the company.Valentino_lastemperor1 This attentive, affectionate portrait, by Matt Tyrnauer which traces the final year of the designer’s career, shows that it’s good to be the king. Valentino is the creative wellspring, the man whose intricate demands have to be satisfied. And he is not easily satisfied. One of the last designers whose couture was handmade — his assistants, one of his backers noted, never touched a sewing machine — he relies on his invisible artists, the seamstresses of northern Italy, for the anachronistic grace of his frocks. He designs the dresses; they make them. Antonietta de Angelis, the head seamstress of the house, has some of her boss’s imperious temperament. She knows that anything less than perfection is unacceptable, for a master who keeps wanting to improve on it. After designing a perfect white dress, a symphony of subtle movement, he ponders his creation and announces, “But some sequins can’t hurt.” Says Valentino Garavani “I know what women want,”  “They want to be beautiful.” But the question any couturier must answer is, What kind of beautiful do they want to be?